The Essential Tools
by: Bent Andersen
Most, if not all, homeowners have a toolbox, and DIY (do-it-yourself)
junkies can’t live without one. However, because tools can be so
cheap and varied nowadays, there’s a very strong temptation to just
grab one of everything at the hardware store and then say that you’
re getting ready for any eventuality. This results in a cluttered
garage or tool area and, in many cases, wasted money. Below are
some of the bare necessities that your tool box should contain.
While they may not prepare you for post-tornado house rebuilding,
they will certainly suffice for fixing that noisy door in the kitchen or
for the regular maintenance jobs around the house.
The Usual Stuff
These are the things that everyone has in their sets, the contents of
the usual toolbox. That’s another way of saying “if you don’t have
the following, get one now.” These are tools that even your
grandfather had, so you’d probably be familiar with them already.
Screwdrivers are absolutely necessary tools. They come in two
general variations (the minus and the plus, formally known as the
flat or straight and the Philips, respectively), but can come in a wide
range of sizes. Just get the usual, fixed-blade, no-frills models
unless you’re expecting to do some specialized work. The teeny tiny
versions of screwdrivers are called precision sets and are handy to
have around.
Hammers, like screwdrivers, come in a variety of sizes for different
jobs. Two should probably be enough for your needs. You could get
a medium size (usually 16 oz.) for regular jobs and a larger size
(usually 32 oz.) for the heavy duty work.
For plumbing and working with fasteners, you’re going to need pliers
and wrenches. Usually, a couple of each (one of each type, snub-
nose and long-nose, for the pliers) will do. You can even go the
extra mile and get a wrench set, which has about 10 to 15 pieces.
Saws are obviously necessary tools if you plan to maintain any wood
or metal. For cutting metal, a hacksaw and a couple of cold chisels
will do. For wood, a chisel and a saw will suffice. To save on space,
you could get one of those handles that have a base compatible
with removable saw blades. The blades and the handles themselves
are small, and it’s a great little multitool.
Your testing and measuring instruments are critical for determining
when you’ve done a good enough job. Make sure to always pack
some measuring tape, measuring tape, a measuring square, a level,
a voltage tester and an amp meter. Consumable items are also
important, so you should always have a couple of pencils, electrical
tape, sealant, lubricant, and an array of screws, nuts, nails, and
bolts on stock.
Not-So-Usual Necessities
Now that we’ve gone through the usual contents of the toolbox, let’s
cover some of the other tool necessities. These are the items your
granddad probably didn’t think of putting in the toolbox, but are still
ones you should have yourself. Of special mention here are
multitools, which have recently become very popular and, more
importantly, more affordable. They’re those multi-armed trinkets that
have several attachments on them, hence, the name and their
ability to do several tasks.
Vise-grips and a utility knife automatically fall into this category.
They’re great for any number of tasks and should be a staple in
your toolbox. Have at least two vise-grips (plumbing jobs and
clamping is usually easier with two), while a six-inch knife should be
good enough. A right angle drive helps you get your fasteners into
tight places and impossible spaces and, while not absolutely
necessary, will be convenient to have around for several tasks.
Cleaning materials have recently become toolbox mainstays, and
you should always have some, too. A bit of anti-rust agent (WD-40
works great) and a toothbrush are absolute necessities for cleaning
and maintenance.
About The Author
Bent Andersen is a DIY kind of guy, who knows his way around most
home repairs and tools. He maintains a small website, http://www.
vaerktoejstip.dk
by: Bent Andersen
Most, if not all, homeowners have a toolbox, and DIY (do-it-yourself)
junkies can’t live without one. However, because tools can be so
cheap and varied nowadays, there’s a very strong temptation to just
grab one of everything at the hardware store and then say that you’
re getting ready for any eventuality. This results in a cluttered
garage or tool area and, in many cases, wasted money. Below are
some of the bare necessities that your tool box should contain.
While they may not prepare you for post-tornado house rebuilding,
they will certainly suffice for fixing that noisy door in the kitchen or
for the regular maintenance jobs around the house.
The Usual Stuff
These are the things that everyone has in their sets, the contents of
the usual toolbox. That’s another way of saying “if you don’t have
the following, get one now.” These are tools that even your
grandfather had, so you’d probably be familiar with them already.
Screwdrivers are absolutely necessary tools. They come in two
general variations (the minus and the plus, formally known as the
flat or straight and the Philips, respectively), but can come in a wide
range of sizes. Just get the usual, fixed-blade, no-frills models
unless you’re expecting to do some specialized work. The teeny tiny
versions of screwdrivers are called precision sets and are handy to
have around.
Hammers, like screwdrivers, come in a variety of sizes for different
jobs. Two should probably be enough for your needs. You could get
a medium size (usually 16 oz.) for regular jobs and a larger size
(usually 32 oz.) for the heavy duty work.
For plumbing and working with fasteners, you’re going to need pliers
and wrenches. Usually, a couple of each (one of each type, snub-
nose and long-nose, for the pliers) will do. You can even go the
extra mile and get a wrench set, which has about 10 to 15 pieces.
Saws are obviously necessary tools if you plan to maintain any wood
or metal. For cutting metal, a hacksaw and a couple of cold chisels
will do. For wood, a chisel and a saw will suffice. To save on space,
you could get one of those handles that have a base compatible
with removable saw blades. The blades and the handles themselves
are small, and it’s a great little multitool.
Your testing and measuring instruments are critical for determining
when you’ve done a good enough job. Make sure to always pack
some measuring tape, measuring tape, a measuring square, a level,
a voltage tester and an amp meter. Consumable items are also
important, so you should always have a couple of pencils, electrical
tape, sealant, lubricant, and an array of screws, nuts, nails, and
bolts on stock.
Not-So-Usual Necessities
Now that we’ve gone through the usual contents of the toolbox, let’s
cover some of the other tool necessities. These are the items your
granddad probably didn’t think of putting in the toolbox, but are still
ones you should have yourself. Of special mention here are
multitools, which have recently become very popular and, more
importantly, more affordable. They’re those multi-armed trinkets that
have several attachments on them, hence, the name and their
ability to do several tasks.
Vise-grips and a utility knife automatically fall into this category.
They’re great for any number of tasks and should be a staple in
your toolbox. Have at least two vise-grips (plumbing jobs and
clamping is usually easier with two), while a six-inch knife should be
good enough. A right angle drive helps you get your fasteners into
tight places and impossible spaces and, while not absolutely
necessary, will be convenient to have around for several tasks.
Cleaning materials have recently become toolbox mainstays, and
you should always have some, too. A bit of anti-rust agent (WD-40
works great) and a toothbrush are absolute necessities for cleaning
and maintenance.
About The Author
Bent Andersen is a DIY kind of guy, who knows his way around most
home repairs and tools. He maintains a small website, http://www.
vaerktoejstip.dk
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HOME& GARDEN
How To Use Nails
by: Johan Nickson
Nails may look like simple things but in fact, there are dozens of different types, each suited to a
particular job. Knowing the right one to use will help to make sure your work is fixed properly – and
permanently.
Nailing is quick – you do not have to make elaborate preparations to do it – and nails are still the
cheapest way of joining tow pieces of wood together. Unfortunately ‘hammer and nails carpentry’ is
often used as a derogatory term when in fact correctly used, nail provide a perfectly sound joint.
For instance, there is nothing slipshod in nailing palings to a fence. Screws would be impractical, not
just they are more expensive and time-consuming to use, but because you would not get a better job
– the fence certainly would not last any longer.
Nails are most frequency associated with woodwork, yet they are also the standard as well as a
number of other specialist jobs. Head size and shape can be matched to the job in hand, as can the
finish – although are made of a mild steel wire, they are often coated to prevent rustling, usually by
galvanizing or sherardizing.
Before buying any nails, you must yourself the following questions:
What type of nail do I need?
This is governed by the materials your are fixing. For example if you are doing rought constructional
wood work or outdoor jobs your would use round wire nails; for planed timber that is to be painted,
finer oval wire nails would be a better choice, and so on.
What size of nail do I want?
Nail size is usually expressed as a length. The length you choose is mostly a matter of judgement,
but a rule of thumb is that the nail should be three times as long as the thickness of the timber it is
fixing. The thickness of the nail is generally related to its length although varying thickness is
available. It is as well to check – you do not want a thin, spindly nail if you are fixing think boards; and
equally, a think nail could split thin boards.
How many will I need?
This governs the way you buy the nails. If you only need a few of one type then a prepack will
probably be the most convenient, but is usually the most expensive option. Otherwise nails are
normally sold loose and by weight, this works out much cheaper. But if you do by nails in this way
remember to label them and pack the so they are kept clean, otherwise they will soon corrode and
they can be tedious to sort out the size once they have been mixed.
There are of course many different nail types such as a Clout nail, a Flooring brad and a masonry
nail. Don’t worry however, we will be covering them all soon in a future article.
In summary a lot of using a hammer and nail is very much common sense, not rushing and stopping
to think about a job, before wading in with a big hammer. Remember the old saying of measure twice
cut once.
About The Author
Johan Nickson is a master wood worker at http://www.powertooldirect.co.uk
by: Johan Nickson
Nails may look like simple things but in fact, there are dozens of different types, each suited to a
particular job. Knowing the right one to use will help to make sure your work is fixed properly – and
permanently.
Nailing is quick – you do not have to make elaborate preparations to do it – and nails are still the
cheapest way of joining tow pieces of wood together. Unfortunately ‘hammer and nails carpentry’ is
often used as a derogatory term when in fact correctly used, nail provide a perfectly sound joint.
For instance, there is nothing slipshod in nailing palings to a fence. Screws would be impractical, not
just they are more expensive and time-consuming to use, but because you would not get a better job
– the fence certainly would not last any longer.
Nails are most frequency associated with woodwork, yet they are also the standard as well as a
number of other specialist jobs. Head size and shape can be matched to the job in hand, as can the
finish – although are made of a mild steel wire, they are often coated to prevent rustling, usually by
galvanizing or sherardizing.
Before buying any nails, you must yourself the following questions:
What type of nail do I need?
This is governed by the materials your are fixing. For example if you are doing rought constructional
wood work or outdoor jobs your would use round wire nails; for planed timber that is to be painted,
finer oval wire nails would be a better choice, and so on.
What size of nail do I want?
Nail size is usually expressed as a length. The length you choose is mostly a matter of judgement,
but a rule of thumb is that the nail should be three times as long as the thickness of the timber it is
fixing. The thickness of the nail is generally related to its length although varying thickness is
available. It is as well to check – you do not want a thin, spindly nail if you are fixing think boards; and
equally, a think nail could split thin boards.
How many will I need?
This governs the way you buy the nails. If you only need a few of one type then a prepack will
probably be the most convenient, but is usually the most expensive option. Otherwise nails are
normally sold loose and by weight, this works out much cheaper. But if you do by nails in this way
remember to label them and pack the so they are kept clean, otherwise they will soon corrode and
they can be tedious to sort out the size once they have been mixed.
There are of course many different nail types such as a Clout nail, a Flooring brad and a masonry
nail. Don’t worry however, we will be covering them all soon in a future article.
In summary a lot of using a hammer and nail is very much common sense, not rushing and stopping
to think about a job, before wading in with a big hammer. Remember the old saying of measure twice
cut once.
About The Author
Johan Nickson is a master wood worker at http://www.powertooldirect.co.uk
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